Hallab Sweet Palace

On my first night in Tripoli, my father-in-law took me to the famous Abdulrahman Hallab sweet palace which occupies most of a city block. The Hallab family is famous throughout Lebanon for its sweets. We visited the original Hallab, and at some point I'll probably visit the brother's Hallab. The Hallab family underwent a family upset that is the sweet equivalent to the savory split in the Kreusz barbecue dynasty of Lockhart, TX sometime back, but most of the people I have spoken to prefer the original Hallab, although they agree the brother has his moments of transcendence. Hallab ships internationally and I have had their sweets on many occasions, but I have been taking the opportunity since I have arrived in Tripoli to eat the desserts that feature Ashta or Lebanese cream. I should be getting a tour of the facilities in the next few days and I'll report back on how they make Ashta, but for now, I'll share a few pictures of some of the fine Ashta delicacies.

My first night here we had Kunafeh. It is made with a semolina cake with the texture of cornbread that is stuffed with Ashta. Kenafeh is then served with orange blossom jam, crushed pistachios, and orange blossom and rose blossom syrup. This afternoon, my lovely partner and I returned to Hallab for a spot of gluttony. We tried Mafrukeh and Znud el Sitt.

Mafrukeh begins with a thin layer of semolina pudding flavored with ghee, orange blossom and rose blossom water and sugar. It is then covered with Ashta and the usual accompaniment of orange blossom jam and crushed pistachios, as well as blanched and fried almonds and fried pine nuts. The texture was a lovely mixture of unctious and crunchy.

Znud el sitt is also known as Ladies Arms. You stuff filo pastry with Ashta, deep fry it, and add the usual accompaniment.