Katayef

Thanks are due to world renowned fruit expert Helmet over at Phronesisiacal for identifying what is known colloquially in Lebanon as the Ashta fruit. The Custard Apple, otherwise known as a Netimoya was no stranger to Helmut's vast knowledge of fruit in all its diversity.

Ashta is the Arabic word for cream, and the Lebanese variety is entirely decadent. It is reminiscent of clotted cream, but fluffier. It is really kind of a mystery to me and I plan to explore it in great detail over the next few weeks, regardless of any gastrointestinal distress it might cause my somewhat lactose intolerant self.

I first encountered Ashta in a fairly dismal rendition of a dessert known as Ladies Arms at a not especially good bakery in Houston. These are puffy pastries injected with Ashta and then soaked in a simple syrup flavored with Mai Zaher and Mai Wared - infusions of orange blossom and rose water. The heart of Ashta country is Tripoli, Lebanon where I will be traveling later today with my mother-in-law and my lovely partner who are long time residents of the city.

Tripolitans are notoriously fussy about their sweets, and largely intolerant of their specialties when they are reproduced elsewhere. With this in mind, I have been informed that until my arrival in Tripoli, the only Ashta of any worth that I will be able to find is at one specialized bakery in Beirut.

My mother-in-law and I visited this bakery yesterday and departed with several Katayef, their specialty. Katayef is a pancake which you smear with Ashta, adorn with a small dollop of jam made of the blossoms of bitter oranges, and slather with the ubiquitous simple syrup, this one made with an infusion of rose petals. They were a scrumptiously sticky pleasure.